• Home
  • Septic Systems
  • FAQs
  • Service Area
  • Gallery
  • Contact
  • More
    • Home
    • Septic Systems
    • FAQs
    • Service Area
    • Gallery
    • Contact
  • Sign In
  • Create Account

  • My Account
  • Signed in as:

  • filler@godaddy.com


  • My Account
  • Sign out

Signed in as:

filler@godaddy.com

  • Home
  • Septic Systems
  • FAQs
  • Service Area
  • Gallery
  • Contact

Account

  • My Account
  • Sign out

  • Sign In
  • My Account

Septic System FAQs: Homeowner's Guide to a Healthy System

FAQs

 

At Digger Dave LLC, we believe that informed homeowners are the best homeowners. Understanding your septic system is crucial for its longevity and for protecting your property and the environment. Below are answers to common questions we receive, designed to help you become an expert on your home's wastewater treatment.


Essential Septic System Terminology:

To better understand your septic system, here are some key terms:

  • Septic Tank: A buried, watertight container, typically made of concrete or fiberglass, that receives all wastewater from a home. It's where solids settle out as sludge and lighter materials form scum, undergoing initial anaerobic (without oxygen) decomposition.
  • Effluent: The liquid wastewater that has undergone primary treatment in the septic tank and flows out into the drainfield for further treatment.
  • Drainfield (or Leach Field/Absorption Field): An area containing a network of perforated pipes buried in gravel trenches or chambers, where the effluent from the septic tank is slowly dispersed into the soil for final treatment and absorption.
  • Sludge: The heavier solids that settle at the bottom of the septic tank.
  • Scum: Lighter materials, such as grease, oil, and soap, that float to the top of the wastewater in the septic tank.
  • Biomat: A biological layer that forms at the interface between the drainfield pipes and the soil. It contains a dense population of microorganisms that further treat the effluent as it percolates through. A healthy biomat is crucial for system function.
  • Dosing: The process of intermittently applying effluent to the drainfield, allowing the soil to rest and aerate between doses, which improves treatment efficiency.


What is a septic system and how does it work?


A septic system is an on-site wastewater treatment facility for homes not connected to a municipal sewer system. It typically consists of a septic tank and a drainfield (also known as a leach field).


  • Septic Tank: All wastewater from your home (toilets, sinks, showers, laundry) flows into this buried, watertight tank. Here, solids settle to the bottom, forming "sludge," and lighter materials like grease and oil float to the top, forming "scum." Naturally occurring bacteria in the tank begin to break down the organic matter.
  • Drainfield: The liquid wastewater (effluent) then flows out of the septic tank into a series of perforated pipes buried in gravel trenches in your yard. The effluent slowly seeps into the soil, where natural processes and microorganisms further treat and filter it before it re-enters the groundwater.


What are the different types of septic systems?

While the conventional tank and drainfield system is common, various alternative septic systems are designed for challenging site conditions, such as poor soils, high water tables, or limited space. Digger Dave, LLC is experienced with a wide range of systems, including:

  • Conventional System: As described above, consisting of a septic tank and a gravity-fed drainfield.
  • Drip Septic System: An advanced system that releases small, controlled "drips" of pre-treated effluent through a network of shallowly buried tubing (drip emitters) across the absorption area. Often used on sloped lots, shallow soils, or where a large traditional drainfield isn't feasible. It typically includes a pump chamber and a filtration unit before the drip lines.
  • Low-Pressure Pipe (LPP) System: This system uses a pump to distribute effluent under low pressure evenly throughout a network of small-diameter perforated pipes buried in shallow trenches. It's effective for sites with poor soils, fluctuating water tables, or sloped terrain, ensuring uniform distribution and preventing localized overloading.
  • Presby Environmental Advanced Enviro-Septic® (AES) System: This is a passive, non-mechanical system that uses specially designed corrugated pipes surrounded by layers of geotextile fabric and randomized plastic fibers, installed in a bed of specified system sand. It provides advanced treatment of effluent through natural biological processes before it infiltrates the soil, often requiring a smaller footprint than conventional systems and suitable for challenging sites.
  • Aerobic Treatment Unit (ATU) System: Unlike conventional anaerobic septic tanks, ATUs introduce oxygen to the wastewater, fostering aerobic bacteria that break down waste much more effectively. The treated effluent is cleaner than that from a conventional tank and can sometimes be discharged to shallower drainfields, drip systems, or even disinfected and reused for irrigation (where permitted).
  • Mound System: Used where the soil is too shallow, has too high a water table, or is too permeable/impermeable for a conventional drainfield. A mound system is an elevated absorption area constructed above the natural soil surface using specific sand fill and gravel to treat and disperse effluent.
  • Lagoon System (Waste Stabilization Pond): A large, shallow, excavated pond or basin where wastewater is treated through natural processes involving sunlight, wind, and algae. Commonly used in rural areas with ample land, these systems rely on biological and physical processes for treatment. They are typically preceded by a septic tank.


The best type of system for your property depends on your site's specific characteristics, local regulations, and your household's needs. Digger Dave, LLC can help you determine the most suitable and compliant system.


How often should my septic tank be pumped?

The frequency of pumping depends on several factors:

  • Household Size: More occupants generally mean more wastewater and solids.
  • Septic Tank Size: Larger tanks can hold more solids before needing to be pumped.
  • Water Usage Habits: High water usage can push solids into the drainfield prematurely.
  • Presence of a Garbage Disposal: Using a garbage disposal significantly increases the amount of solids entering the tank, requiring more frequent pumping.


As a general guideline, most septic tanks should be inspected annually and pumped every 3-5 years. However, Digger Dave, LLC can assess your specific system and household habits to recommend an optimal pumping schedule.


What are the signs of a failing septic system?

Being aware of these warning signs can help you address issues before they become costly emergencies:

  • Foul Odors: Persistent, strong sewage odors in your yard (especially near the septic tank or drainfield) or inside your home's drains.
  • Slow Drains: Sinks, tubs, or toilets draining very slowly, or gurgling sounds when flushing.
  • Standing Water/Soggy Spots: Unusual puddles, damp areas, or excessively lush, green grass over your drainfield, even during dry weather. This indicates wastewater is surfacing.
  • Sewage Backups: The most serious sign is sewage backing up into your sinks, toilets, or bathtubs. This requires immediate professional attention.
  • Algae Blooms in Nearby Water: If your property is near a pond or stream, an increase in algae could indicate your septic system is leaking nutrients into the water body.


If you notice any of these signs, contact Digger Dave, LLC immediately for an inspection. Early detection can save you significant repair costs and protect your property.


What should I never flush or pour down my drains if I have a septic system?

Your septic system relies on a delicate balance of bacteria to break down waste. Introducing harmful substances can disrupt this balance and lead to system failure. Avoid flushing or pouring:

  • Non-biodegradable Items: Wipes (even "flushable" ones), paper towels, feminine hygiene products, diapers, dental floss, cigarette butts, cat litter.
  • Grease and Oil: These solidify and can clog pipes and accumulate in the tank.
  • Hazardous Chemicals: Paints, paint thinners, solvents, pesticides, antifreeze, large amounts of harsh drain cleaners, or excessive bleach. These can kill beneficial bacteria.
  • Medications: Pharmaceuticals can harm the bacterial balance and contaminate groundwater.
  • Coffee Grounds and Food Scraps: While a garbage disposal grinds them, they still add a heavy load of solids to your tank, requiring more frequent pumping.


Are septic tank additives necessary or beneficial?

The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and most septic professionals agree that septic tank additives are generally not necessary for a properly functioning septic system that treats typical household wastewater. The natural bacteria in your waste are usually sufficient. Some additives can even be harmful, disrupting the natural processes or causing solids to flush into your drainfield, leading to premature failure. Stick to regular pumping and responsible wastewater disposal.


Can I drive or build over my septic tank or drainfield?

Absolutely not. The weight of vehicles, heavy equipment, or even permanent structures can compact the soil, damage pipes, and compromise the integrity of your septic system. This can lead to system failure and very expensive repairs. Always know the location of your septic components and keep them free from obstruction and heavy traffic.


How can I conserve water to help my septic system?

Water conservation is vital for extending the life of your septic system. Excessive water use can overload the system, pushing solids into the drainfield before they've had enough time to settle.

  • Fix Leaks: Promptly repair any leaky faucets or running toilets.
  • Install Low-Flow Fixtures: Use water-efficient showerheads, toilets, and faucets.
  • Stagger Laundry Loads: Avoid doing all your laundry in one day. Spread loads out over the week.
  • Run Full Loads: Only run dishwashers and washing machines when they are full.
  • Shorten Showers: Reduce the amount of time spent in the shower.


How long does a septic system typically last?

With proper design, installation, and regular maintenance, a conventional septic system can last 20-30 years or even longer. However, factors like soil conditions, household water usage, and consistent maintenance play a huge role. Neglecting your system can drastically shorten its lifespan and lead to premature and costly replacement.


Why should I choose Digger Dave, LLC for my septic system needs?

At Digger Dave, LLC, we are committed to providing reliable, expert septic services. Our team is highly trained and experienced in all aspects of septic system inspection, pumping, maintenance, and repair, including specialized and alternative systems. We understand the unique needs of homeowners and are dedicated to helping you maintain a healthy, long-lasting septic system through honest advice and quality workmanship. We are your local authority for all things septic!


Have more questions or need a septic system service? Contact Digger Dave, LLC today! We're here to help.


Call Digger Dave: (816) 873-2208

Or fill out our online contact form https://diggerdavellc.com/contact

Copyright © 2025 Digger Dave, LLC - All Rights Reserved.

  • Home
  • Septic Systems
  • FAQs
  • Service Area
  • Gallery
  • Contact

Powered by

This website uses cookies.

We use cookies to analyze website traffic and optimize your website experience. By accepting our use of cookies, your data will be aggregated with all other user data.

DeclineAccept